A few hours of chaos--nonsensical museum hours, relentless building works and changing venues--and it hits home. Fellini made documentaries, Dibdin reminds the traveller. The guide mimics its subject, jumping around when it feels the urge but giving solid information on the basics. There's a better than usual list of Italian phrases for food, money, accommodation and shopping. And a handy column under the heading "female self-defence." But, not to deny the chance at romance, it also includes the phrase "mi piacerebbe tanto fare un giro con Lei in Vespa"--"I'd love to go for a spin on your Vespa." Or, as this book suggests, be indulgent with Rome, it will love you for it. --Kathleen Buckley